Smart locks, video doorbells and thermostats, fitted to houses that were wired for none of them. We open up what is already there first: the transformer, the neutral wire, the strike plate, the Wi-Fi signal at the door. Then you decide what to buy.
Upfront flat pricing on every job. You approve before we start.
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“I hired him to repair a window trim that had fallen off, and he did an excellent job. He was very responsive, arrived on time, and completed the repair quickly. The work was done professionally and everything looks secure and clean. Pricing was fair, and he took the time to explain what needed to be done. Highly recommend and would use his services again.”
Three things are worth checking before you buy anything: the Wi-Fi signal at the front door, what your doorbell transformer is actually rated for, and whether there is a neutral wire behind the thermostat.
We read all three on the first visit, while the boxes are still sealed and the devices are still returnable. That order saves more than any discount on the device does.
One flat price per job, agreed before we start. Each range opens the guide behind it.
Houses settle. Sixty years of that and the door is no longer square in its frame, so you lift the handle or lean on it to get the bolt home. A smart lock will not do that for you. The motor turns, the bolt catches the edge of the strike plate, the battery dies in a month and the app reports a jam most nights. We hang the door right, move the strike, deepen the mortise if the bolt needs room, and the electronics go on last.
Your doorbell transformer may be a small unit sized for a mechanical chime, and a video doorbell pulls more than it can give, so the picture stutters or the unit reboots mid-ring. Your thermostat may have no neutral wire, which most smart models need for power. We open both up and tell you what is there before you buy the device. If the answer is a new circuit or new wire pulled through a wall, that belongs to a licensed electrician and we will say so.
Old plaster over wire lath, and stucco with mesh under the coat, both cut Wi-Fi hard. A doorbell twelve feet from the router can sit at one bar. We check signal at the door first, and we mount to a backing plate instead of driving screws into bare stucco, where they chew out and leave the unit hanging by its wires. Renting or in a condo? We can keep the install reversible.
The lock, if you are choosing. It is the one you use every day, it solves the key handover for cleaners and guests, and it is the install where the house fights back hardest, so it is worth having someone do it properly. The doorbell is second. The thermostat pays for itself slowest here, because LA heating runs so little, though it earns its keep on a house that runs the cooling system all summer.
The basics keep working. A smart lock still opens with the keypad, the key and the app over Bluetooth from the doorstep. A thermostat still holds its schedule and runs the system from the buttons on the wall. What you lose is remote access and the video: a doorbell with no connection records nothing and notifies nobody, which is worth knowing before you rely on it as a camera.
For the device to connect, something has to hold the credentials. Most people type it in themselves while we set the device up, which is what we suggest, and plenty of routers have a guest network you can put the device on instead. We do not need or want access to your accounts. If you would rather do the whole app side yourself, we mount and wire it and hand it over ready to pair.
It comes up on nearly every house sale. An old panel by the door wired to nothing, a lock still paired to somebody else's phone, a thermostat for a system that has since been replaced. We take them out, patch what they were screwed to, and put the new one in. Bring us the paperwork if any of it was left behind, though we rarely need it.
